The signature experience for a tourist in Rwanda is the opportunity to see gorillas. That said, your first impression of Rwanda is the capital city of Kigali. 1.7 million people call Kigali home, and this includes Jim, my longtime friend from college.
We flew overnight, departing Doha at 11pm. It was 6am when we arrived in Kigali. Needless to say, the first order of business was a cup of coffee.
Immigration and customs were quick and easy and Jim was there to greet us. We went directly to a coffee shop called Brioche. It looked like any coffee shop in the US, until you tasted the coffee! The Rwandan coffee is deeply flavored and this was a perfect introduction to the next 9 days!
My experience in Africa is limited to Ethiopia, Uganda, and Morocco, and now Rwanda. Of those, Kigali is the most beautiful capital city! The streets are pristine, often lined with palm trees. Traffic is orderly and the weather is mild and sunny. It feels new!
On day 1, Jim suggested a lunch spot called the Hut. It is the roof deck restaurant of a boutique hotel. Both the view and the food were great! I just couldn’t believe I was sitting in Kigali! The beer most often served is called Mützig, a Heineken brand made in Rwanda.
We visited Jim’s office. He works for a US-based economic development organization. We met several of his Rwandan colleagues in the US, so it was a happy reunion! We all went out for dinner at a charming little spot called Burrows. Here we ate the famed “Aka Benzi.” This is a fried pork dish reminiscent of Spanish Chicharrón. The story behind the name is a good one. Rwandans feel the pig’s snout resembles the Mercedes Benz logo, thus, “aka Benzi”!
Jim’s place is a high-rise apartment building on a hill. The view is fantastic and there is an entire world to see over morning coffee! Kigali has a beautiful golf course right in the center of town and this was visible from Jim’s place. One afternoon I walked over and played 18 holes with a caddy. I could hardly believe I was golfing in Africa!
Right below his balcony was a morning procession. There were kids going to school and women going to work. There were runners on a beautiful running track around the perimeter of the golf course.
At night you can see the Convention Center across town, perched atop one of the “thousand” hills.
We ate at several good restaurants. The food features a base of beans and rice. It comes topped with starchy vegetables and meat. My favorite was a small lunch buffet called Murugo. Like any international city, Kigali has its share of food from other countries, including the French “Poivre Noir”. They were all good, but when in Kigali… I preferred–and recommend–the afro-centric Repub Lounge which was delicious, upscale, and very creative.
One night we ventured to the western side of town to the Muslim Quarter. I definitely recommend a visit to this area. At night it has gorgeous views of the city and it is bustling with activity. There is a long pedestrian mall, teeming with restaurants, tea and coffee shops, and a lot of people! We found a restaurant called The Green Corner and feasted on whole fried fish, roasted chicken, and cold beer!
If there is one place you must go, even before the gorilla trips, it is the Genocide Museum. I’ll be the first to say this does not sound like a good time! But to really understand and appreciate Rwanda today, this is a critical visit. It also turned out to be surprisingly positive experience. The genocide happened 30 years ago. For something of this gravity, 30 years is the blink of an eye. This country was torn apart and many of the people who experienced this horror continue to live in Rwanda today.
To walk through the memorial is both chilling and sickening. A small group of people in charge divided the country and encouraged the wholesale slaughter of neighbors and friends. Control of the Media, political intimidation, and an apathetic international community all contributed to this dark spot in history.
It is remarkable to see how modern and developed the country is today. I think a lot of the credit goes to President Paul Kagame, who has led the country since the genocide. Kagame is viewed by some as a dictator with little tolerance for dissent. I am not qualified to comment on the politics of Rwanda. From the perspective of a tourist, and outsider, if he is a dictator, he seems a benign one. His main goal appears to be holding a country together and helping it heal.
Finally, I include a collection of pictures of some of the sights. Our friend Jim and his wife Messi were great hosts and without question, I feel richer for the experience.
I have long said travel that expands our comfort zones is good for us. To see a place like this through something other than a western perspective is humbling. I mentioned it above, I truly feel enriched from this experience. The people of Rwanda were friendly and kind, the weather was as pleasant as it gets. It was a beautiful, educational adventure.
I’ll drink a cold Mützig to that!
ToneManblog 